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Grading & Markers

Non-linear grading rules for building a size run, and marker nesting for measuring fabric efficiency before cutting.

Updated January 8, 20267 min read

Grading a base size into a size run

Grading scales a base pattern into a full size run using a grade rule for each measurement point — chest, length, sleeve, armhole depth — rather than uniformly scaling the whole piece. Niche Studio's grading is non-linear: a rule can change amount per size step instead of applying the same delta at every step, which is closer to how commercial size charts actually grow.

Setting grade rules

  1. Confirm your base size is fully fitted and finalized — every other size derives from it.
  2. Set a grade rule per measurement point, using industry grade increments as a starting point (e.g. 5 cm chest per size for a relaxed hoodie).
  3. Preview the extremes of the run first — the smallest and largest sizes reveal a bad rule faster than the middle sizes.
  4. Export the graded size chart alongside the tech pack so a factory can see the rule, not just the result.

Marker nesting and fabric efficiency

A marker is the layout of every pattern piece — across all sizes in a cut plan — arranged on a fabric width to minimize waste. Niche Studio's nesting uses a bottom-left-fill packing approach, trying pieces at multiple rotations to close gaps.

Fabric efficiency (also called marker efficiency) is the percentage of the marker length that is covered by pattern pieces versus empty space. A higher percentage means less fabric bought and wasted per unit produced.